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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011
9:21 pm
Stretchy knitted-effect crochet socks

The first time I tried crocheting a sock, I gave in as the leg would either be so loose it looked baggy or so tight I couldn't get it over my heel!  I spent a while looking at patterns, trying to find a remedy for the problem, as I much prefer crocheting to knitting, but I gave up as everything I read told me that crochet wasn't stretchy.

That was, until I found the joys of "sideways" crochet used in patterns such as those of Mary Jane Hall www.ravelry.com/designers/mary-jane-hall and this pattern for a crochet hat www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-convertible.  After a couple of false starts I managed to put together a pair of socks that don't look too bad and, most importantly, actually do stretch.

I've been asked for the pattern - I'm in no way a pattern designer and I don't think I can write it in a proper pattern format, but this is what I did and I hope it makes sense to anyone brave enough to give it a go!  Anyone who reads this and wants to write it out better - please do, I will be more than happy. :)


INSTRUCTIONS/RECIPE CALL IT WHAT YOU WILL.....

The stitch used throughout is slip stitch worked through the front loop only.  You will need to work loosely otherwise it is difficult to get the hook into the stitches.

I used Regia Bamboo sock yarn and a 4mm hook, approx 1.5 skeins used.

The number of stitches used is for a sock that fits my feet and will probably need to be adjusted to fit yours!


MAIN BODY OF SOCK

- Chain 100 stitches.  Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 8 rows of front-loop slip stitch.

- On the next row, work the 3 central stitches together in order to decrease the number of stitches by 2, work 10 rows like this in total.

(To do the decrease, pull up a loop as normal for the stitch but don't pull the loop through the loop on the hook.  Do the same with the next stitch. On the third stitch, pull the loop through all 3 loops on the hook)

- Work 34 more rows (without decreasing or increasing).

- On the next row, work 3 stitches in the central stitch to increase the number of stitches by 2.  Be careful to makes sure the increases are exactly opposite the decreases!  Work 10 rows like this in total.

- Work 8 more rows (without decreasing or increasing).

- Join the 2 long edges to form a tube.  I did this by working a slip stitch row through both edges to join but this left a bit of a ridge along the length of the sock, a better way might be to sew it up somehow but I haven't tried it yet.

TOE SECTION

- Work 52 stitches evenly along one end of the tube.

- Working in the round, decrease as above on each side of the sock (i.e. where the outside edges of the big and little toes will sit) so each row will be decreased by 4 stitches in total.  Work 6 rows like this in total.

-Close the gap using whichever method you prefer!  Sew in ends etc.

Make a second sock the same as the first!


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